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We have left La Gomera behind and have made our way to El Hierro, the last Canary Island we will visit before heading to the Cape Verde’s. El Hierro is the smallest island in the Canary group and has a population of only 11,000 people. Most of the island is uninhabited and it has remained largely unchanged by tourism. That means little English and few, if any, vegetarian options. But we have high hopes for the island as the sail over was great – the best since leaving Canada. We thought that we had completely replaced enjoyable sails with horrible ones, full of bad weather and vomiting but apparently fun CAN be had on the Atlantic Ocean. The sun was shining, the wind was consistent, and there were barely any waves. Zenobia sped through the water at 7 knots on a beam reach and I happily went down below to make lunch – on the stove! As he relaxed in the cockpit Adam forgot all his plans to sell the boat and abandon the crossing to the Caribbean. He could even be heard expounding on the virtues of sailing between singing along to Bat out of Hell (despite the fact that I clearly said no more Meatloaf on the iPod). There was even a rainbow to welcome us as we made landfall at the end of the day. Will it last? Will we learn to love sailing again? Can we dare to hope to avoid seasickness on the passage to the Cape Verde’s? Probably not, but at least for now Adam can take a break from endlessly thinking up ways to sink the boat.